So what the crap (!) ...
This is roughly the pronunciation (if you were to affect a ridiculous borat-style "i could be from anywhere that people talk funny" kind of accent) of the thai catch-all greeting and also epitomizes my first 24 hours here.
Bangkok is a lot like Delhi though much less crowded and with less aggressive swindlers. But same rikshaws (here tuk tuk), same clusterfuck traffic, same signs of rapid industrialization that never came into its own. While Thailand does benefit from a healthy tourist industry and plenty of successful exports like clothes and rice, by and large the Thai of Bangkok are simple vendors and service people. They make their money from selling you food and carting you around the city.
What they do have are some sweet ass scooters. All the young men zip around on these 100cc (think lawnmower engine) bikes weaving in and out of traffic, seems very practical. My first thought which i shared with M&D on the car ride into the city from the airport was that I wanted to drive one around bangkok like the kid who just flew by us, but no sooner had the words left my mouth than that same kid was eating pavement while his bike skid into the median. luckily, he got up quickly, relatively unscathed but not without warranting a prophetic told-you-so that even has me apprehensive. whatever.
So there are like a shitload of tourists here. i don't know how but it seems like we outnumber the thai 3-to-1, not just at the monuments and down the backpacker's alley but like seriously everywhere. it is CHEAP (minimalist, but clean hostel last night was $8/night), and the Thai are very accomodating, and there is a booming sex business here, but seriously how do this many fucking people not have to work in November?!? hopefully they're not all on unemployment or the global economy is going to hell in a handbasket (btw, where does this bizarre expression come from?)!
The Temple of the Emerald Buddha yesterday was impressive. It's amazing how each culture can develop such a distinct stylistic vernacular while having such transparent borders and ethnic divisions. The thai thing, or maybe it's a theravedic thing, is to use LOTS of shimmering gold leafing and mosaics of colored glass on buildings with deadly points at every corner. Religious iconography is rife with these canine-faced demonic dragons that i assume represent the various incarnations of evil spirits and worldly oppressions. Never seen anything like it.
But the net effect of the glistening facades and interior detail is undoubtedly to convey the luminance of the world beyond and seated in front of the majestic throne where the emerald buddha (in fact it is solid jade) sits certainly has the desired transcendent influence. One can imagine that while in deep contemplation the warming glow must inspire a reassuring calm.
My parents hotel is pretty dope. It could be anywhere really, and i'm sure since it's a hilton endeavor it probably will be soon. but it's nice and maybe the only thing that's gotten them through the first day. Our morning buffet was appropriately continental with smoked salmon, veggie sushi, dim sum, an indian beef dish, crossaints and brie, and fresh fruit. it was all i could do not to totally pig out. fortunately for the hotel, we arrived late right as they were closing so i only had a chance to make two plates worth of damage. The pool is also pimped and is where i'll be midday today when it's hot as shit and no one really wants to be walking around with sweaty balls sticking to their leg at every stride. you know what i mean.
OK, there's lots more but i shouldn't spend the whole morning in the A/C or it'll fuck me up the rest of the day. besides, i don't like the feeling of not knowing whether the foreigner looking over my shoulder can read english or not and it's starting to creep me out.
Bangkok is a lot like Delhi though much less crowded and with less aggressive swindlers. But same rikshaws (here tuk tuk), same clusterfuck traffic, same signs of rapid industrialization that never came into its own. While Thailand does benefit from a healthy tourist industry and plenty of successful exports like clothes and rice, by and large the Thai of Bangkok are simple vendors and service people. They make their money from selling you food and carting you around the city.
What they do have are some sweet ass scooters. All the young men zip around on these 100cc (think lawnmower engine) bikes weaving in and out of traffic, seems very practical. My first thought which i shared with M&D on the car ride into the city from the airport was that I wanted to drive one around bangkok like the kid who just flew by us, but no sooner had the words left my mouth than that same kid was eating pavement while his bike skid into the median. luckily, he got up quickly, relatively unscathed but not without warranting a prophetic told-you-so that even has me apprehensive. whatever.
So there are like a shitload of tourists here. i don't know how but it seems like we outnumber the thai 3-to-1, not just at the monuments and down the backpacker's alley but like seriously everywhere. it is CHEAP (minimalist, but clean hostel last night was $8/night), and the Thai are very accomodating, and there is a booming sex business here, but seriously how do this many fucking people not have to work in November?!? hopefully they're not all on unemployment or the global economy is going to hell in a handbasket (btw, where does this bizarre expression come from?)!
The Temple of the Emerald Buddha yesterday was impressive. It's amazing how each culture can develop such a distinct stylistic vernacular while having such transparent borders and ethnic divisions. The thai thing, or maybe it's a theravedic thing, is to use LOTS of shimmering gold leafing and mosaics of colored glass on buildings with deadly points at every corner. Religious iconography is rife with these canine-faced demonic dragons that i assume represent the various incarnations of evil spirits and worldly oppressions. Never seen anything like it.
But the net effect of the glistening facades and interior detail is undoubtedly to convey the luminance of the world beyond and seated in front of the majestic throne where the emerald buddha (in fact it is solid jade) sits certainly has the desired transcendent influence. One can imagine that while in deep contemplation the warming glow must inspire a reassuring calm.
My parents hotel is pretty dope. It could be anywhere really, and i'm sure since it's a hilton endeavor it probably will be soon. but it's nice and maybe the only thing that's gotten them through the first day. Our morning buffet was appropriately continental with smoked salmon, veggie sushi, dim sum, an indian beef dish, crossaints and brie, and fresh fruit. it was all i could do not to totally pig out. fortunately for the hotel, we arrived late right as they were closing so i only had a chance to make two plates worth of damage. The pool is also pimped and is where i'll be midday today when it's hot as shit and no one really wants to be walking around with sweaty balls sticking to their leg at every stride. you know what i mean.
OK, there's lots more but i shouldn't spend the whole morning in the A/C or it'll fuck me up the rest of the day. besides, i don't like the feeling of not knowing whether the foreigner looking over my shoulder can read english or not and it's starting to creep me out.
posted by FJMIII at
4:27 PM
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